My third year at De Montfort University had finally arrived. I couldn't believe it and felt as if I'd only just started my time as a student.
Pre collection was the first project of my final year; it was almost a practice for our final majors where we were expected to work through most of the processes of design on our own, guided with help if needed.
My collection was called The Fragility of Nature. The concept being the way nature adds to or takes away from itself, for example shells that have been partially broken and have had barnacles grow on them and trees that have been defaced by animals and algae.
A shell coated in barnicles and 'graffitied' by the sea; collected from the South Wales coast
A paper folding and collage made to represent part of the shell above
A cracked sea urchin shell worn down to its bare state without the spines, underfur or colouring
A Photoshopped key hole image of the sea urchin above; changing colour and abstracting its shapes
Tree bark ingrained by growth and animals
Colours drawn from inspiration within this project were very naturalistic and soft.
The target market for this collection was luxury hospitality, for example boutique hotels and spas where the aim was to develop room dividers/blinds which changed from day to night via technical yarns; altering the ambience of the environment too.
This project had a very light weight handle and was very sheen focused therefore aiding the decision for monofilament to be used as its warp yarn. I used fancy and technical yarns such as bobble, glow in the dark and reflective in the weft to pick up on the textures of respective primary imagery. A draft of four blocks allowed a wide variation of pattern and proportion.
Yarns used within this project: cotton, bobble, fluffy, retroflective and glow in the dark
I took professional photography of all of my collections for portfolio and showcasing purposes, some of them are shown below:
Simple cotton weft on a monofilament base with retroflective yarn feature inspired by key hole drawings of rows of shell spirals. The two blocks to the right hand side of this weave work well as a focalising statement
An overlay of two of my woven pieces with varying stripe widths
Hand manipulated piece featuring fancy yarns using block structure inspired by tree markings
Complex striping with fine cottons and monofilament photographed using perspective
Here are some images with my technical yarns in use:
Glow in the dark yarns change from delicate to light source inspired by rogue barnicles seen on shells
Retroflective yarns on show
Jacquard weave showing retroflective yarn (left) and its regular form showing twill and plain weave contrasts
Contextualization of a weave from my collection in a hotel environment
Following this pre collection project I moved onto my final collection and last project at university.
It was my time to shine, time to show the world who I was as a designer. Release the colour..
Within the first week of my final year project of textile design I decided to set up an Instagram to track progress and get myself in the public eye. It's a lovely thing to have to look back on, to remember this past year. It has to be said I do miss university and weaving on those huge looms. I still can't believe how much I achieved in the space of a year. Here's the link if you'd like a look at my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lucyannis.textiles/
An insight into my Instagram
My final year project at university was called 'Looking in, Reflecting Out'. It was deferred from inspiration of an image seen within another via reflections, distortions, perspective and proportion; all taken from urban environments at a variety times of day.
Its chosen market was women’s couture
SS17; focusing on structural pieces such as shoulder ruffles on dresses, 3D skirts and featuristic panels.
I drew my primary research from Leicester
and Cardiff's City Centres and Cardiff Bay; with basic mark making using gouache,
pens, cutwork and collage works (later developed using CAD) being taken from
segments of these locations.
Key features of undulating paths, blocks of colour and distorted
angles through yarns (at a 2/30 weight) such as viscose, cotton, monofilament, fancy (rubco, bobble, wire and tapes) and tie dye were shown off by techniques of extra weft, tapestry and twill notations throughout
the collection. Most weaves were double cloths to fit with the collection's target market and fill the market gap of sculptural pieces within couture normally being plain and single coloured fabrics made decorative with embellishment.
Contemporary artist Matthew Jorde became an important influence upon formulating routes of distortion within my initial research through the collaging and blurring of single images. Mohammed Ashi, a womenswear couture designer was also inspiration towards my design process, aiding the formation of highly manipulated structures to be shown on the body.
In addition to this final year project I also undertook the creation of a website to showcase Lucy Annis Textiles, a portfolio and a press back to send to companies.
Website showing woven projects achieved by me, portfolio and contact links: https://lucyanniswooddesign.wordpress.com/
Warp two set up using hand dyed cotton
Viscose warp set up being reeded
Large scale placement jacquard weave. Formed using mirroring, contrasting structures and complex striping; seen in hand manipulated image of De Montfort University buildings under construction
Sideways twill in blocks of varying coloured viscose, the highlight being tye dyed
Viscose, wire and cotton piece showing back and front sides; inspired by Selfridges in Birmingham (left) and possible end use, showing wire manipulation (right)
Close up of wire manipulation on alternating twill weave above
Triangular placed layout of weaves from my collection inspired by perspective and zig zags
Viscose and cotton curved twill and varying proportion striping and blocks with different fibres on top giving depth
Contexturalisation ideas of the weave above showing pleated and exaggerated shoulders
Textured monofilament and bobble/chenille fancy yarn piece inspired by Fenwick shop window
In lay technique on striped warp giving undulating lines of De Montfort Doctors Surgery panelling(left) and panels of this weave shown as end use
Play on blocks to form distortion by bringing out depths of colour using placement of warp threads
Hand tye dyed warp threads used to gain soft tonal effects alongside streaks of pink
Contextualisation of tye dye influenced distortion pieces as panels of skirts
Elongated triangles on curved twill background using stretch viscose, cotton and tye dye yarns; inspired by London tube imagery (left) and pleating of fabric to form wide shoulder and high neck pieces(right)
Abstract triangle jacquard weave mirrored and repeated on a large scale. Colour only on inset of piece to add to vibrancy of dark shades seen in shadows
Grouped weaves of undulating and blurred lines seen in drawings
Manipulation of fabric to give movement (left) textured triangle mark making jacquard weave with placement to left hand side (right)
Free flowing patterns as seen in distorted water images from Cardiff Bay
Repeated and flipped tile jacquard of waves seen in reflected windows from across street in Leicester City Centre
Loose woven form in viscose, cotton and wire piece using plain weave
Tapestry triangles and peaks using cotton and monofilament; picking up on distorted lines of restaurant lighting seen on wet paving stones
Pleats and angled beaten sections in contrasting cotton and fancy yarns showing difference in perspectives which altered lights from buildings on Cardiff Bay waterfront
Contextralisation of perspective piece using draping
Ombre in lay of mixed washes of colour with diamond and circle background of equally merging colour
Grouped fabrics inspired by elongated triangles and peaks
Heavy in lay on herringbone background giving effect of lines of weave body being distorted
I handed my final year project in at the beginning of May, my collection displayed on pretty white hangers in my crisp work space alongside my mood and context boards.
I'm was delighted with my final collection; the colour, techniques (striping, angled beating, in lay and zig zag) and sheen based yarns made for a very unique hand in. The use of tye dye was one I feel showed off the feeling of distortion, one of my main focus points particularly well.
I feel if I was to have continued my collection I would have done a wider variety of viscose weaves as they were the most effective as far as showing off sheen. They equally gave a far more luxurious effect and handle than some of the cottons and monofilaments I used later in the project.
Upon over-viewing my work I think I potentially should have focused on one or possibly two techniques for my final pieces as the eye is a little overwhelmed by its busyness- I struggled to rein in one particular feature of my extensive research as I had so many ideas I felt needed to be captured.
Final hand in of university